Worth a (Subway) Trip: Inventive Diner Fare at M. Wells

It's incredibly difficult to convince Manhattanites to cross a river—whether the East, the Harlem, or the Hudson—and if all that awaits them is "diner food," the task grows even more Herculean. But M. Wells, the new Quebecois-American restaurant two 7-train stops into Long Island City, Queens, is no ordinary diner and it rewards pioneering eaters with what we agree is "some of the most innovative cooking in the city."

Set in a diner from 1954, the decor is comfortably classic, with a counter for solo diners, two-top booths, bigger rough-hewn tables, and chrome details everywhere. The seasonally inspired menu is both familiar and innovative: the beef-and-lamb hamburger comes slathered with harissa mayo, the egg-and-potato hash is paired with tuna confit and crab, the summery heirloom tomato salad is sourced from the nearby Sunnyside Greenmarket. It's comfort food made with high-quality ingredients even the most obsessed farm-to-forker can appreciate.

But perhaps most refreshing are the prices: A cup of Brooklyn-roasted Oslo coffee is just $1.50, cheaper than a Starbucks brew in Midtown. The most expensive item is a $14 pork chop cassolette smothered in wild mushroom sauce, but most items are in the single digits, an unfortunate rarity in New York dining. As Serious Eats observed, M. Wells offers innovative, lovingly made fare with a price tag "no higher than your average diner tab." A worthy investment indeed—even if we do have to ride the subway under the East River to get there.