I've been auditioning Brooklyn neighborhoods lately and Carroll Gardens is at the top of my list. For out-of-towners (and my lovably clueless banker buddies), I liken it to the West Village in Brooklyn. But really, I'm starting to think that it's better. Last night's meal at Char No. 4 may have tipped the scale. Despite being praised by everyone from the sadly departed Gourmet to the New Yorker (not to mention our own Hot Tables list), the restaurant remains wonderfully un-sceney. Crowded, yes. But not in a frustrating way, and with a good mix of people (even some suits, who were sitting beer to beer with indie beauties). Unlike some downtown restaurants, which act like you should only be so lucky to get a table, here is a buzzy spot that still loves its customers. And the food: southern-inspired, with a modern sensibility and plenty of sass. From previous visits I knew to order more fried cheese curds than we thought prudent, plus spicy pork niblets (for the name alone) and the housemade lamb pastrami. In honor of Cinco de Mayo, we had dark and gamey barbacoa covered in cilantro, sour cream, and radishes, plus a hugely satisfying chopped pork sandwich with a wedge of jalapeno cornbread. By dessert (rich praline ice cream suffused in bourbon), I was bragging about moving in across the street. With a neighborhood spot like this, how can I resist?
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Another long-time Brooklyn favorite.
Rule for eating in New York.
Drinking cocktails elsewhere (Vancouver, in this case).
I’m a fan of the smoked (really) thick cut bacon with brussels sprout leaves, pickled apples & black pepper.
And the whisky. Go ahead and get a flight.
The place can get packed on a Friday night, but no worries—if the bar's too crowded, wait it out at Clover Club down the street. Just don't roll in too late—I've stumbled in there 'round 10ish and they've been out of some of the "house smoked" meats. To paraphrase our waiter: you can only smoke so much pork in a day. So true.