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Hardwick, Vermont's Food Success Story (And Why You Should Plan a Trip There Now!)

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A few years ago, one of my most clued-in food writers called me from a tiny town in Vermont raving about a restaurant named Claire's. The town was Hardwick, Vermont, and Claire's wasn't the only progressive food business in town. In fact, the tiny hamlet was such a hotbed of locavore, sustainable, and community-based activity that it was being hailed as a model for a new kind of food system. Ben Hewitt's new book, The Town that Food Saved, takes a close look at Hardwick to see how soy milk and grass-fed meat have invigorated the local economy. His candid, thoughtful account is the product of years of research (he first covered the town in 2008 for Gourmet), and hits very close to home—literally: Hewitt is a Vermont native and lives just miles from Hardwick. It's a complicated tale that touches on everything from industrial agriculture to socioeconomics—but it's also a bit of a love letter to this scrappy Vermont town and its many characters. After reading the book, I had an urge to plan a weekend trip to Hardwick—and I still might. Here, Hewitt gives me his top Vermont picks—Hardwick and beyond.
Claire's Restaurant and Bar, Hardwick: Since its opening in May 2008, Claire's has managed to source more than 70% of its ingredients from within 15 miles (chef Steven Obranovich even makes his own ketchup from local ingredients). That wouldn't be nearly so impressive if the food wasn't damn good and - given its quality - relatively affordable. Being a blue collar writer/farmer type, complete with the associated empty pockets, I'm particularly fond of Monday nights, when a grilled cheese sandwich, french fries (bread and cheese both made within 15 miles; ditto the taters) and pint of Switchback Ale  can be procured for a mere $7. [Ed note: Claire's landed on our 2008 Hot Tables list]

Kismet, Montpelier: This little hole-in-the-wall (I mean this in the most affectionately flattering way possible; Kismet is small, cozy, and utterly charming) eatery in Vermont's capitol city of Montpelier serves some of the least-pretentious, most delicious and nutritionally dense meals I've eaten. I'm particularly fond of their eggs benedict crepe, with ham, raw milk cheese, poached eggs, hollandaise, and pea greens. Like Obranovich, Kismet founder Crystal Maderia has a strong "keep it local" ethos. She even makes her own butter!

Parker Pie Company, West Glover: My family doesn't eat a lot of pizza, but when we do, it's always at Parker Pie. Situated in the back room of a general store in the town of West Glover (population about 500), 30 minutes north of Hardwick, Parker Pie has become a local's gathering spot of some renown, possessing a vibrancy that belies the 'burg's "don't-blink-or-you'll-miss-it" nature. Seating is limited, though Parker Pie is expanding and summer always finds a few picnic tables situated in the back lawn. The selection of beer is fantastic, and live music is a regular feature on Thursdays and weekends.

Buffalo Mountain Food Co-op, Hardwick: If you remember nothing else about Hardwick's Buffalo Mountain Food Cooperative (did I mention that it's featured in my book? No? Well, it's featured in my book), remember this: It was founded in 1975, making it one of the oldest continuously operating food cooperatives in the US, and during the first years of operation, it shared a building with a liquor store and a gun shop. Talk about one stop shopping. Buffalo Mountain now enjoys its own space on Main Street (two doors down from Claire's), and is probably the most active and engaged small food cooperatives I've seen. Out of a regional population of 8,000, they boast 1,000 members, and maintain a schedule of community events and workshops that is inspiring in its breadth and depth. And of course they carry tons of really good local food.

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Where the editors of Condé Nast Traveler gather 'round the table to gossip about chefs, restaurant openings, cocktail trivia, and where to find the best cupcakes in the world.