From Tablecloths to Taco Trucks, the World's Best Food
| No Comments

Hot Spot: Frances Up-and-Running in San Francisco

ts_bittermelon_100203.jpg
A peek at the interior of Frances. We'd take that perch at the tiny bar
Photo: bittermelon /
/ CC BY-ND 2.0

We dig San Francisco chef Melissa Perello around here. She was one of Condé Nast Traveler's September-issue Insiders; she shared a travel-friendly but nutritive homemade in-flight meal with Moveable Feast in November. Now, after years cooking at Charles Nob Hill and then the Fifth Floor (which won a Michelin star under her leadership), she's opened her own restaurant.

We read Chronicle critic Michael Bauer's Sunday review of Frances last night, and are happy to report that he thinks "not a dish disappoints." (Check out the article for a 360 degree view of the Castro space.) "I'm so excited about the food that I'm tempted to describe every dish, but they're so intricately woven and simply presented it would take up the entire Food & Wine section." (These are big words for Bauer.) Our picks off the sample menu posted to Frances's Web site: Applewood smoked bacon beignets with crème fraîche and chive; semolina gnocci with duck confit and braised cavolo nero; lacinto kale and crepe cannelloni with leeks and king trumpet mushrooms. We'd cap it all off with a Blue Bottle espresso. Now, what are flights to San Francisco looking like these days?

Leave a comment

About Moveable Feast

Where the editors of Condé Nast Traveler gather 'round the table to gossip about chefs, restaurant openings, cocktail trivia, and where to find the best cupcakes in the world.