"If it's Chinese food you're
after, pack your chopsticks for Vancouver," writes Mark Schatzker in Condé Nast Traveler's February story, Canada Wins Chinese Gold. There, in what might be Canada's most livable city, he tirelessly tasted his way through mediocre Dungeness Crab and soggy noodles, ultimately finding the best of the best in Chinese cuisine. (And after 38 meals in 12 restaurants, we trust he knows a dumpling master when he sees one.) He also got some QT with chef Stephanie Yuen (pictured), who had a lot to say about chicken fried rice and MSG. Read on for the interview.Mark: What does it take for a city to have a culture of good Chinese restaurants?
Stephanie: Fussy eaters. Just kidding. It starts with the chefs. The main reason why Vancouver has such excellent Chinese food is because of all the chefs that came in from Hong Kong before 1997. Communism scared the hell out of them. So they came as an escape in case the Chinese takeover went bad. And of course, a lot of them open up restaurants. And we also have lovely ingredients, being right next to the Pacific Ocean, and access to all these Asian greens that are now being grown right here in lower mainland British Columbia.
What do you see as the major difference between good and bad Chinese restaurants, other than the way the food tastes?
I think it has to do with the attitude of the chef and the restaurant as a whole. In China and Hong Kong, they’re overpopulated. If you open a restaurant, people will show up. In Vancouver, you have to lure them in. But not everyone understands that. They don’t understand what it takes to be a good restaurant, and their food will never be comparable to someone who puts their heart and passion into the dish. It all comes down to what we Chinese call “wok energy.”
Many round-eyes think that you can tell a good Chinese restaurant by
looking at the number of Chinese people inside. If it’s filled with
Chinese people, the food must be good. Is that a brilliant or idiotic
strategy?
Both. It’s mainly a practical strategy. But don't forget that not all Chinese people have good taste in Chinese food.
What is the biggest mistake bad Chinese chefs make?
They use too much MSG. There’s no proof that MSG will do your body harm, but I am allergic to it. I don’t like how I feel after I've eaten it. But chefs use MSG because it cuts the cost of their ingredients by half. They don’t end up using as much pork bone or chicken. The flavor isn't as good, as a result.
Is there a way of sussing out a good Chinese restaurant based on the menu alone?
I don’t think so. The Chinese menus are quite standardized—maybe it’s all because of the printing companies, I don't know. Everyone has sweet and sour pork. Everyone has stir fried beef on greens. If you want to find a good Chinese restaurant, the best thing to do is ask a local Chinese, “Where do you go?” Otherwise, check Web sites and blogs.
What is the biggest mistake most non-Chinese make when ordering?
They order the same thing every time. It’s a habit. They’re not adventurous enough to try something new. They stick with the wonton soup, the beef chow mein and the chicken fried rice.
But when ask my Chinese waiter to serve me what they would eat if they were ordering, and they show up with wonton soup, Cantonese chow mein and all the rest. Why is that?
They’re not sure if they're going to offend your palate with something too regional. Even when I, a Chinese person, go to a restaurant with a gweilo, they start suggesting deep fried prawns. But it’s getting better. Now, more and more gweilos know exactly what they want. There has been progress. But it took 20 years.
So how do people get around this?
They should say, "What is the special today?" and start from there.
More on Vancouver from Mark Schatzker
Video: Is Vancouver Really the Most Livable City in the World?
Both. It’s mainly a practical strategy. But don't forget that not all Chinese people have good taste in Chinese food.
What is the biggest mistake bad Chinese chefs make?
They use too much MSG. There’s no proof that MSG will do your body harm, but I am allergic to it. I don’t like how I feel after I've eaten it. But chefs use MSG because it cuts the cost of their ingredients by half. They don’t end up using as much pork bone or chicken. The flavor isn't as good, as a result.
Is there a way of sussing out a good Chinese restaurant based on the menu alone?
I don’t think so. The Chinese menus are quite standardized—maybe it’s all because of the printing companies, I don't know. Everyone has sweet and sour pork. Everyone has stir fried beef on greens. If you want to find a good Chinese restaurant, the best thing to do is ask a local Chinese, “Where do you go?” Otherwise, check Web sites and blogs.
What is the biggest mistake most non-Chinese make when ordering?
They order the same thing every time. It’s a habit. They’re not adventurous enough to try something new. They stick with the wonton soup, the beef chow mein and the chicken fried rice.
But when ask my Chinese waiter to serve me what they would eat if they were ordering, and they show up with wonton soup, Cantonese chow mein and all the rest. Why is that?
They’re not sure if they're going to offend your palate with something too regional. Even when I, a Chinese person, go to a restaurant with a gweilo, they start suggesting deep fried prawns. But it’s getting better. Now, more and more gweilos know exactly what they want. There has been progress. But it took 20 years.
So how do people get around this?
They should say, "What is the special today?" and start from there.
More on Vancouver from Mark Schatzker
Video: Is Vancouver Really the Most Livable City in the World?
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